Tomàs Cusiné Geol 2021, Costers del Segre DO, Catalonia, Organic

Geol is the most structured red in Tomàs Cusiné’s main range, from his organic vineyards around El Vilosell in the Costers del Segre DO, at over 700 metres in inland Catalonia. It is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan (known locally as Samsó), grown on stony, calcareous clay soils. The grapes are hand-harvested into small boxes, chilled, then sorted berry by berry on a double sorting table. Fermentation takes place in wooden vats, malolactic fermentation and lees stirring follow in barrel, and the wine is then aged for around 14 months in French oak.

In the glass it is a deep, dark cherry red. The nose is full of blackberry and plum compote, with cedar, eucalyptus, dark chocolate, liquorice and balsamic notes. The palate is full-bodied, silky and mouth-filling, with round, deep tannins and a long, powerful finish.

Serve at 16–18°C, ideally opened or decanted an hour ahead. It suits grilled and roast red meats, lamb, game, hearty stews and aged cheeses, and even a Gruyère-topped burger. It is drinking well now and has the structure to keep for several more years.

Tomàs Cusiné founded his own winery in 2003 in El Vilosell, a village in Les Garrigues, in the Costers del Segre DO of inland Catalonia. It was his first independent project, after years of experience at his family’s wineries, Castell del Remei and Cérvoles. El Vilosell sits where Costers del Segre meets Conca de Barberà and Montsant, below the Serra de la Llena hills that separate it from Priorat. Tomàs owns 30 hectares of vineyards and works with around 70 more hectares from contracted local growers. Many of the vineyards sit at 700 metres or more, largely on north-facing slopes, and 17 grape varieties are planted. His own vines are farmed organically, using only organic compost and keeping sulphur and copper treatments to a minimum, and the wines are certified organic by the CCPAE, Catalonia’s organic body.