Guerila Zelen 2023, Vipava Valley, Slovenia, Biodynamic

Guerila Zelen is a dry white from Zmago Petrič’s family estate at Planina, above Ajdovščina in Slovenia’s Vipava Valley, made entirely from Zelen, a rare white grape native to the valley. The fruit comes from the Preske and Pile vineyards, south-facing terraces at 300 to 450 metres on flysch, a mix of marine sediments, with vines aged between 10 and 24 years. These vineyards have been farmed organically and biodynamically since 2011. The grapes are picked by hand and macerated on their skins for six hours, then fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts, followed by a natural malolactic fermentation. The wine matures for four months on its lees in stainless steel, with no oak, and is bottled according to the Maria Thun biodynamic calendar with minimal sulphur.

In the glass it is a brilliant light green with yellow hues. The nose brings together Mediterranean herbs such as bay, rosemary and thyme with fruity and floral notes. The palate is delicate and mineral, balancing freshness with a smooth, gently textured feel, at a moderate 12% alcohol.

Serve chilled, at around 10–12°C. It is lovely with seafood, grilled fish, pasta dishes and vegetables, and its herbal character suits dishes made with fresh herbs and olive oil. Enjoy it while young and fresh, over the next two to three years.

Guerila is a family winery at Planina, above Ajdovščina, on the southern slopes of Slovenia’s Vipava Valley, where Mediterranean and Alpine influences meet. The family already grew grapes here, and Zmago Petrič set up Guerila in 2005, choosing the best sites and planting more of the valley’s local grape varieties. The vineyards lie on steep, south-facing terraces of the Vipava hills, on sand, sandstone, marl, limestone and Eocene clay, with good exposure to sun and wind and wide swings between day and night temperatures. The family has worked organically and biodynamically, using compost, green manure and biodynamic preparations, and Guerila is certified by Demeter. The focus is on native grapes such as Zelen, Pinela and Rebula, all hand-picked, naturally fermented and bottled with minimal sulphur.