Clos Thierrière Les Pleurs Chenin Blanc 2023, Vouvray, Loire

Clos Thierrière Les Pleurs is a dry Vouvray made entirely from Chenin Blanc by twin brothers Guillaume and Baptiste Frey. It is a blend of the estate’s different terroirs in Vernou-sur-Brenne, on tuffeau limestone, red clay and flinty clay, from vines averaging around 30 years of age. The name means ‘the tears’, after the drops of sap that appear on the vines at the end of winter as they wake from dormancy. The grapes are pressed directly as whole bunches, fermented with wild yeasts in inert tanks and aged on fine lees for six to seven months, with no oak, before bottling.

The nose shows plenty of pear and yellow fruit, with apple and a lift of citrus oil. The palate is dry but generous and textured, with a silky, dense mid-palate, ripe, sunny Chenin character and hints of chalk, leading to a long, elegant finish with a slight, refreshing salinity.

Serve chilled, at around 8–10°C. It is lovely with Loire goat’s cheeses, shellfish, grilled fish, roast chicken, pork with apples and lightly spiced Asian dishes, and it makes a fine aperitif. Les Pleurs is approachable now and should continue to develop for several years.

Clos Thierrière is a young Vouvray domaine established in 2021 by twin brothers Guillaume and Baptiste Frey. Born in Amboise and not from a winemaking family, the brothers came from business backgrounds, having studied in Reims and Paris, before learning their craft under the respected Vouvray grower Vincent Carême. Their 12 hectares lie in Vernou-sur-Brenne, just east of the town of Vouvray, with most vines either side of the Rue Neuve and a small parcel close to the première côte. The vineyards are planted with Chenin Blanc on a mosaic of tuffeau limestone, red clay and flinty clay. The brothers stopped using herbicides and pesticides from the start, with the vineyards in conversion to organic farming. In the cellar they use native yeasts and inert vessels, minimal sulphur and no fining, so the wines are suitable for vegans.