Domaine Gruhier Bourgogne Tonnerre Blanc 2023, Burgundy, Organic

Domaine Gruhier’s Bourgogne Tonnerre Blanc is a certified organic Chardonnay from the Tonnerrois, the cool northern corner of Burgundy just beyond Chablis. Bourgogne Tonnerre became its own named appellation in 2006 and covers six villages, including Épineuil and Tonnerre, where the vines grow on the same Kimmeridgian limestone as Chablis. Dominique Gruhier ferments with wild yeasts and ages the wine for 10–11 months partly in stainless steel and partly in older 228- and 400-litre barrels, using only small doses of sulphur along the way.

The result sits neatly between Chablis and the Côte d’Or. The nose shows lemon, citrus and orchard fruit such as apple and pear, with gentle hints of cream and toasted bread from the lees and old wood. The palate is medium-bodied and fresh, with a fine mineral streak and a clean, refreshing finish.

Serve at 10–12°C. It is excellent with fish pie, roast cod or hake, chicken in a light creamy sauce, goat’s cheese salads or warm gougères. Domaine Gruhier Bourgogne Tonnerre is drinking well now and will keep comfortably for 3–4 years.

Domaine Dominique Gruhier lies in Épineuil, in the Tonnerrois of northern Burgundy, a short drive north-east of Chablis and on the same Kimmeridgian limestone. Dominique, who grew up in nearby Tonnerre, began buying vines here around 1990, and the domaine is housed in Le Petit Quincy, a monastic grange built in 1212 by the Cistercian monks of the Abbaye de Quincy. He started farming organically in 2003, and the estate, around 25 hectares of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a little Pinot Gris, is certified organic by Ecocert. Dominique vinifies parcels separately to bring out the best sites, uses wild yeasts, older and larger barrels and minimal sulphur, and handles Pinot Noir gently to keep its natural elegance.