Clos du Gravillas Côté Obscur 2025, Vin de France, Languedoc, Organic

Côté Obscur is a limited, organic red from Clos du Gravillas, Nicole and John Bojanowski’s small domaine high in the hills of Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, in the Languedoc. It is a blend of Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon, two of the varieties the couple have championed here, grown on very stony, clay-limestone soils at altitude, where cool nights help the grapes ripen slowly and keep their freshness. The grapes are hand-harvested from low-yielding vines and carefully sorted in the vineyard, and the wine is aged in stainless steel tanks, with no oak, to keep the focus on pure fruit. Only a few thousand bottles are made, and it is bottled as a Vin de France.

In the glass it is a deep, dark purple. The nose shows deep blackcurrant with fresh, lifted notes. The palate is vibrant and long, with a silky texture, rich blackcurrant fruit and hints of menthol and cocoa, finishing with a fresh, chalky grip that reflects the Minervois limestone.

Serve at around 16–18°C. It is a lovely match for grilled lamb, duck, sausages and cassoulet, mushroom dishes and hard cheeses. It is delicious now and will keep well for five years or more.

Clos du Gravillas is a tiny organic domaine on the high limestone plateau of Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, in the hills of the Haut-Languedoc nature park, some 300 metres above sea level. Nicole Bojanowski arrived here in 1996 and planted Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre; in 1999 she and her American husband John, from Kentucky, took on an old Carignan vineyard planted in 1911, along with old Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris vines. Today they farm around eight hectares and grow some 15 varieties, with a focus on traditional Languedoc grapes such as Carignan and Terret. Nicole has been a tireless champion of Carignan, helping to put the grape back on the radar of the wider wine world. The vineyards are certified organic, and the wines are made with precision, favouring freshness and liveliness over power.