Monemvasia Winery Kydonitsa 2024, Laconia, Peloponnese, Greece

Monemvasia Winery Kydonitsa is a dry white from the Tsimbidi family in Laconia, in the south-eastern Peloponnese, made entirely from Kydonitsa. This rare local grape, whose name comes from the Greek word for quince, is regarded as the flagship of Laconian terroir and is one of the old varieties the family has helped bring back. The vineyards lie on the Maleas peninsula, in the foothills of the Parnonas mountains between the Myrtoan Sea and the Laconian Gulf, on mineral-rich clay loam, where sunshine and sea breezes help keep the grapes fresh. The grapes are hand-picked and fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel, without malolactic fermentation, and the wine then spends around five months on its lees with regular stirring for added texture.

In the glass it is a bright yellow-green. The nose is led by ripe quince, with pear, citrus, bergamot and hints of chamomile and herbs. The palate is medium to full-bodied and slightly creamy, with lively, refreshing acidity and a long, fruity finish.

Serve chilled, at around 10–12°C. It is a lovely match for grilled fish, seafood and shellfish, vegetable dishes and savoury pies, and white meats with lemon sauces. Enjoy it young and fresh, though it will also develop well in bottle over the next few years.

Monemvasia Winery was founded in 1997 by George and Elli Tsimbidi, who were both teachers, near the medieval fortress town of Monemvasia in Laconia, in the south-eastern Peloponnese. George, a physicist from the nearby village of Velies, set out to rescue the area’s almost forgotten grape varieties, among them Kydonitsa, Monemvasia, Asproudes and Mavroudi, and to revive the legendary sweet Malvasia wine of the Middle Ages, which takes its name from Monemvasia. Working with the Greek Wine Institute and Greek agricultural universities, the family helped create the PDO Monemvasia-Malvasia in 2010. George planted his own vineyards in 2005, around Velies and Agios Dimitrios, and the family farms them organically. Today his daughters Marialena and Anastasia, both trained in oenology, lead the winemaking.