Tomàs Cusiné Llebre 2022, Costers del Segre

Llebre is Tomàs Cusiné’s fruit-led red from El Vilosell, in the Costers del Segre DO of inland Catalonia. Its name comes from Ull de Llebre, or ‘hare’s eye’, the Catalan name for Tempranillo, which leads the blend, supported by smaller amounts of other red varieties grown on the estate, such as Merlot, Syrah and Samsó (Carignan). Many of the vineyards sit at 700 metres or more, on sandy loam and gravel over limestone, where the altitude offsets much of the summer heat. After fermentation the wine is given a short ageing of around three months in French oak barrels, so the oak stays in the background and the fruit leads.

In the glass it is cherry red with garnet glints. The nose is clean and inviting, with red berries, plum and black cherry, and touches of vanilla, clove and white pepper. The palate is medium-bodied, silky, fresh and elegant, with smooth tannins, subtle spice and a hint of cocoa on the finish.

Serve at around 15–17°C. It is an easy match for charcuterie and cold meats, roast or grilled chicken, duck, barbecues, sausages, stews and casseroles, and shepherd’s pie. Enjoy it now and over the next few years, while its fruit is at its most generous.

Tomàs Cusiné founded his own winery in 2003 in El Vilosell, a village in Les Garrigues, in the Costers del Segre DO of inland Catalonia. It was his first independent project, after years of experience at his family’s wineries, Castell del Remei and Cérvoles. El Vilosell sits where Costers del Segre meets Conca de Barberà and Montsant, below the Serra de la Llena hills that separate it from Priorat. Tomàs owns 30 hectares of vineyards and works with around 70 more hectares from contracted local growers. Many of the vineyards sit at 700 metres or more, largely on north-facing slopes, and 17 grape varieties are planted. His own vines are farmed organically, using only organic compost and keeping sulphur and copper treatments to a minimum, and the wines are certified organic by the CCPAE, Catalonia’s organic body.