Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillon 2018, Savennières, Loire

Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillon is a dry Savennières made entirely from Chenin Blanc. Clos du Papillon is one of the appellation’s most celebrated sites, on the right bank of the Loire a little south-west of Angers, and takes its name from its shape, which resembles a butterfly’s wings. Baumard is the largest owner in the clos, where its vines, around 35 years old, grow on a steep, south- to south-east-facing slope of schist, sandstone, sand and volcanic rhyolite. The grapes are picked by hand in several passes, pressed very gently and fermented slowly at low temperature in stainless steel. No oak is used: the wine rests on its fine lees in tank for around nine months before bottling under screwcap.

The nose offers pear, almond and white flowers. The palate is fresh and mineral yet powerful, with rich citrus fruit, grapefruit, bergamot and a hint of makrut lime, and a long, pure, beautifully balanced finish.

Serve chilled but not too cold, at around 10–12°C, and give it some air or a quick decant when young. It is excellent with scallops, sea bream, white fish in creamy sauces, mushroom risotto and gently spiced North African dishes. Clos du Papillon is enjoyable young but is built to age, gaining honeyed, waxy complexity over 15 years or more.

Domaine des Baumard is based at Rochefort-sur-Loire in Anjou, where the Baumard family’s history in wine goes back to 1634. The modern domaine was shaped from the mid-1950s by Jean Baumard, a professor of viticulture and oenology in Angers, who brought a scientific approach to the vineyard and cellar and acquired key parcels in Savennières and Quarts de Chaume. His son Florent joined him in 1987 and now runs the estate, which farms around 40 hectares across Anjou and Savennières. Chenin Blanc is the focus, in dry, sweet and sparkling styles, all made without oak. The vines are trained high and wide, alternate rows are grassed and ploughed, and the grapes are picked by hand. Since the 2005 vintage the still wines have been bottled under screwcap, making Baumard one of the pioneers of this closure in France.